Oaxaca Part 2: The first 3 days

Once in Oaxaca, we took full advantage of the many Artisan's Markets that were around the city and stopped at any that we passed by.  The hand-made crafts are beautiful and durable!  Rugs, jars, chocolate, mole, tamales, mezcal and coffee are just some of the things that you can buy and taste there.  We stayed at the Hostal Don Mario which was about 10 blocks from the Zocalo with many churches and beautiful buildings (not to mention artisan's markets) in between.  

On December 23rd, we walked to the Zocalo to see the Noche de los Rábinos (Night of the Radishes).  Each year artists from around the area carve radishes (some as big as a large zucchini) and set up displays of historic or biblical themes to be judged.  The artists set up their displays in the afternoon of the 23rd, spray the displays constantly with water to keep them fresh, and take them down that evening after the prizes are handed out.  There were so many people coming to see the displays that they had a raised walkway with fences and policemen surrounding the displays.  The line of people waiting to be allowed up on the raised walkway, was longer than a block.  Fortunately, we were able to walk around the outside of the raised walkway to see the displays and take pictures. 

On the 24th, we took the bus to Monte Albán, an ancient Zapotec capital (pyramid ruins), just a few kilometers from Oaxaca.  This site was first occupied in 500BC by Zapotecs.  "Hieroglyphs and dates in a dot-and-bar system carved during this era may well mean that the elite of Monte Albán were the first people to use writing and a written calendar in México."  What I have learned about the pyramids in México is that the huge sites where the pyramids were built were not inhabited, they were only religious sites.  In the case of Monte Albán, the people lived on the land below the pyramid.  

On the night of the 24th, we were able to see a Posada at the door of a church.  The Mexican tradition of the Posada begins on the 16th and ends on the night of the 24th.  This tradition symbolizes the trials which Mary and Joseph endured before finding a place to stay where Jesus could be born.  Adults and children dress up like Mary, Joseph, angels and pilgrims and walk house to house (or church) singing a traditional song asking to be allowed in.  At the first 3 or 4 places, they are refused entry with a song.  At the last (and previously planned) place, the pilgrims are allowed in and after praying in front of a nativity scene, enjoy food, drink and a chance to break a piñata which is usually in a shape representing the star of Bethlehem.

After watching the Posada for a bit, we continued into town to see what was happening in the Zocalo.  There were a lot of people there, some just coming from mass at the Cathedral, others hanging out, still others walking around looking at the trees of poinsettias and displays of Nacimientos (nativity scenes). From there we walked to the Casa Oaxaca Restaurant where we had an elegant, leisurely, Christmas Eve dinner complete with several serenades by three men in Mariachi outfits playing guitars.  It was magical!

For pictures, click on this link:

http://picasaweb.google.com/regnor11/OaxacaPart2TheFirst3Days#

Coming next:  The people of Oaxaca