Luche Libre and Tepotzlan

¡Matalo!  

A phrase that is commonly used at a Luche Libre match but purely in jest.  It literally means, "Kill him!" but...not really.  Luche Libre is Mexico's version of the USA's WWF.  However, the participants are dressed to the "nines" in costumes and elaborate (fabric) masks to match. Replicas of the masks are a very hot item here.  We went to a

Lucha Libre match last friday with 4 classmates of mine and two of the classmate's Mexican padres (a homestay).  We had ringside seats and were in full view of the action!  One of our group was even accausted, in good fun, by two of the participants!  We witnessed about 6 matches in all which included men, women, "mini's" (small people but not dwarfs), dwarfs and referees (couldn't really tell which side they were on, they just hit and kicked the participants at will).  Of course, the action is totally fake but I was amazed at the athletic ability of the participants and their ability to perform the stunts without getting injured.  The audience yells at the participants and the participants jump up on the ropes and yell back usually telling the audience that they are drunk and don't know what they are talking about.  Everyone laughed a lot and seemed to have fun!  I did!  :o)

The next day, Reed and I took the ruta (city bus) downtown to catch a autobus to Tepotzlan which is about 30 minutes east of Cuernavaca.  The traffic to downtown was very slow due to a graduation at the military base and traffic around the zocalo (center square) from the striking teachers.  Two hours later, when our bus to Tepotzlan stopped to let someone board at

a bus stop 1/2 mile from our house, we realized that we could have already been at Tepotzlan!  Oh well, another lesson, of many, learned.

Tepotzlan, a small city of 15,000 people (elev. 5578f) is very picturesque.  Like Taxco, new buildings must have the same architectural style as the older buildings which really makes it seem like an authentic Mexican town.  The city is surrounded by mountains and forests with the main attraction being a pyramid (the Pyramid of Topozteco) at the top of one of the mountains (pic). We climbed the thousands of steps (1313 f. up and 1.24m. long--1 way), along with 100's of other visitors, to see the altar and view, which was  phenomenal(pic)!  The pyramid was built in honor of Tepoztecatl, the Aztec god of the harvest, fertility and pulque (fermented agave cactus juice).  On the

way up, a man (late 40's, early 50s) passed us as he was running up the steps!  I was flabbergasted because I was gasping for air and dripping with sweat!  On the way down, he was running up the stairs a second time--I almost dropped to my knees in homage!  WOW!

After the pyramid and a beer (of course!) we walked through the Tiangis (market) which is the largest and best variety we have seen so far.

The next day we visited the Ex-Convento Dominico de la Natividad 

(a monastery) which was built from 1560-1588.  In addition to a church, the monastery houses the regional history museum.  The arched entryway to the grounds is adorned with an elaborate seed mural of pre-Hispanic history and symbolism(pic).  The mural is created by local artists the first week of september from 60 varieties of seeds.  

After beers and lunch on a balcony overlooking the Tiangis (pic), we bought two small rugs handmade by Carmen and her family and headed home.  Yes, we made sure to get off the bus as close to our house as possible!  :o)

Coming soon:  Cacahuamilpa caverns, Karaoke with the locals and Jilotepec

Tidbits and Observations

*  Burritos don't exist here--they are a US invention.

*  Women don't typically drink in public, except if they go to a bar.

*  Infants and toddlers aren't required to be in a car seat.  I saw one playing on the floor on the passenger side of the car and another was standing on the console in between the front seats!

*  The natural gas tank is on the roof of the house.  I wonder about this, especially when we have incredible lightening and thunder storms.

*  The water tank is right next to the gas tank on the roof--the bill is not based on use but everyone pays a flat fee.

*  At almost every bus stop there are bus "checkers".  They monitor the buses and tell the driver if he (I have yet to see a woman driving a bus, however, I have seen 2 women 'checkers') is late, early or on time.  The drivers toss coins to the checkers which I think is a tip.

*  Since we arrived 35 days ago, we have had one day that we didn't see the sun and one day (24 hours) that it didn't rain.  The rain only lasts for 30 minutes to 1 hour.

*  The other day as I was walking through the Faria on my

 way to school, I heard a big dog growl from behind a tarp-wrapped booth (pic).  I quickly jumped away thinking a mad dog was about to charge me then I realized that it was someone snoring!

Our Casa de Cuernavaca is open for visitors!  We have room for 6 people at a time!  Come on down!  :o)

Coming soon:  Lucha Libre and Tepotzlan 

El Grito!

Tonight, September 15, 2008, at 11:00pm, we will be able to witness "el grito de independencia" (the cry of independence) in the Zocalo of Cuernavaca.  It begins the celebration of Mexico's Independence from Spain which occurred, not on Cinco de Mayo, but on September 16, 1810.  The short version of the story is this:  After Columbus "discovered" America, the Spaniards arrived in Mexico in 1521 headed by Hernan Cortes.  The indigenous nations helped Cortes defeat the Aztecs because they thought they would be better off.  Thus began 3 centuries of Spanish rule.  The Spaniards brought with them diseases unknown to the natives and after one century of Spanish rule the Indian population went from 20 million to 1 million! Discontent steadily grew,  in 1808 Napoleon invaded Spain and inspired by the French philosophers concepts of liberty, equality and democracy and by the war of Independence of the US, the Criollos (those born in Mexico from Spanish parents--the social class below the Spaniards) decided to revolt.  Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, a 57 year-old priest from an old family of Criollos, accompanied by several conspirators, rang the bell of his little church calling everyone to fight for liberty.  This was the beginning of the Independence War, which lasted 10 years.

At 11:00pm tonight, the President of Mexico along with his family, will stand on a balcony in the Zocalo of Mexico City and repeat the cry of Father Hidalgo, "Long live Our Lady of Guadalupe (a symbol of the Amerindians' faith and patron saint of Mexico), death to bad government, and death to the Spaniards!".  From what I hear he also says "Viva Hidalgo!" and other names important to Mexican independence, to which the crown replies, "Viva!".  The event ends at midnight with the cry, "Viva Mexico!" and fireworks.  Apparently, it is also popular to shoot guns into the air!  Yikes!

Each state has it's own cry by the Governor of that state in the Zocalo of the Capitol. Cuernavaca is the Capitol of the state of Morelos, so the Governor is suppose to be in our Zocalo tonight.  HOWEVER, there is rumor that El Grito will not happen because of the teachers strike that is still going on and the Governor is afraid that the teachers (and others that support the teachers) will cause some havoc!  Those DARN teachers!!  :o)

Tomorrow, the cities have military parades.  Our city has a pretty large military base (artillery based) so we will be able to see a grand military parade, I think.  

My first week in Spanish school!

I was prepared, or so I thought, for my first day of school.  I had ridden the bus and walked to the school the previous week (I timed myself) so that I would be 'ready' on the first day.  Well, I

was on the bus on the first day and all of a sudden, at the last Glorieta (round-about) before the road to the school, the street was closed for the Faria (fair) and all the traffic was being detoured to the right. I had no idea where that detour would end up and of course I forgot the map, so I got off the bus and walked through the faria (about 1/2 mile of tarp covered booths) to the school. I made it on time, thank goodness.

My first day at Instituto Chac Mool (Chac-Mool is a pre-columbian mesoamerican stone statue, pic) started at 8am with  a placement test, an orientation and then I was placed in my first class consisting of 2 other adult students.  The main rule, which students see as soon as they enter the front door, is that you may not speak English!  Yikes!  After the test and orientation, the schedule was as follows:  From 8:50-11:40 we have Spanish structure and practice (in a classroom which is a hut outside, pic).  From 12:00-1:50 we have conversation workshop or content courses.  Then, from 1:55- 2:35 you may sign up for either a lecture or a private one-on-one consult.  From 5-7pm Monday - Thursday there is a different event each night, dinner at a restaurant, cooking class, dance class or art class.  On the weekend, for a small fee, they have guided excursions to other cities close to Cuernavaca.

After my first week, I can honestly say, I AM WORN OUT!  It's tough concentrating so hard for 5 hours a day!  However, I have already improved my Spanish and learned a lot! Giovanni is my morning teacher (in this group I am with one other person from Canada) and Veronica is my teacher in the afternoon (in this group I am with 3 others, 2 from California and one from

Michigan).  The teachers are sympathetic and very good but also very strict.  It's interesting being ordered around by a teacher 1/2 my age!  :o)  We work hard, use many modes of learning and have tons of fun.  It is a very relaxed atmosphere. 

(The last two picture are of the school.  The backyard where we have our classes--rough huh?--and the building which has other rooms for classes)

Coming soon:  Other observations.

Deh-Effeh (Mexico City, Distrito Federal)-Part 2

So...I am taking classes and don't have much time to update my blog because I have HOMEWORK...of all things!  :o)

Continuing with our adventure in Mexico City...

On Friday, Aug. 29th, Reed and I rode the Metro to the south side of the city to spend that night and the next day with one of her colleagues who is teaching in Mexico City.  Gretchen is a high 

school teacher in the US but has been placed at a middle school in the city.  She lives with her husband and two children in a 10th floor apartment in one of 12 buildings in a complex (pic of D.F.

 from their window) .  When we arrived, her husband and the kids 

were gone so Reed and Gretchen had time to talk about the differences between education in the United States and Mexico.  It was interesting to listen to them talk (in English, thank goodness)!

When Gretchen's husband and kids returned, we walked to one of the 16 boroughs of the city called Coyoacan which became famous because Leon Trotsky, in addition to Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo, called it 'home' (both homes are now museums).  The intense cultural life that began with Diego and Frida is still very prevalent in the atmosphere of this part of town with it's many theaters, institutes and galleries.  The architecture is equally intense (2 pics).  We didn't get to see much of the

 area because it got dark so we ventured back to this part of town the next day. It was Saturday which meant there were many outdoor markets (Tianguis) filled with paintings, drawings and

handcrafted items (pic).  We walked through several markets and then around the streets in this part of town, expertly led by Gretchen's husband and his Lonely Planet Guide.  

After eating, another flavorful meal, we ventured back to the apartment to pack and bid farewell.  We took the Ruta (city bus)

 which costs 2 pesos (20 cents) to the Terminal for the 'big' bus ($6.60 for 1 1/4 hour) back to Cuernavaca.  We learned a valuable

 lesson:  when you offer to pay for your tickets with a credit card and the person at that part of the counter says that she doesn't 

have a credit card machine, it means that she, personally, doesn't have a credit card machine--it doesn't mean that the bus company

doesn't accept credit cards.  Unfortunately, we were 60 cents short of buying a ticket with cash and spent a good hour walking around on 'tips' from kind, helpful people before we realized our misunderstanding.  We arrived home safely!  :o)

An observation:  It is increasingly obvious the divide between the haves and have-nots in Mexico.  However, I haven't seen many homeless people.  What is astonishingly obvious is that people sell whatever/wherever they can to 'make a living'.  Por ejemplo (for example--a term that is used frequently here), currently there is a Faria (fair) going on in a major street here in Cuernavaca for 10 days (1/4 mile long).  The amount of things that are for sale is beyond belief AND they are the same things booth after booth.  I can't imagine that the people that own these booths are making much money and I often wonder how they can buy these things in such quantity to sell!  OR are they working for some entity and being paid 'peanuts'?  In addition, riding around in the cities I have noticed grand, walled-in houses right next to a shanty with NO walls and a tin roof.  On that same street there is a person selling tamales out of a bucket on the corner of the street.  It is all very interesting and I find myself pondering the differences, reasons, events, and observations each day.

Coming soon:  My first week at Instituto Chac Mool!