We've moved!

Reed's exchange partner, Monica, resigned at the end of November and will be returning to México at the end of the month.  We have known that this might happen since the second week of September when Monica emailed Reed and said that she was not happy teaching/living in the US. It has been quite a roller coaster of emotion since then because we weren't sure if we would have to return to the US or not.  As you can imagine, Reed was devastated because this is a lifelong dream of hers and she wanted to see it through.

Well, as luck/fate/karma would have it, we are able to stay!  

Some things had to fall into place. First, the Fulbright

 Commission, using some of Monica's complimentary salary 

that she wouldn't need for the rest of the year along with

extra money from the coffers, had enough money to pay Reed's district for a sub for her for the rest of the year.  Second, Reed's

district and Principal said that they would allow her to stay in México.  Finally, substitutes that could teach upper-level Spanish were found and are currently being interviewed. 

We started looking for an apartment or house last week.  One of Reed's colleagues/friends found out that another colleague had a bungalow for rent.  We went to see it, liked it and moved in on

Tuesday!  It is about 4 blocks from Monica's house, in a gated community with guards at the front gate (a little weird, but okay) and has beautiful grounds.

Although this has been a little crazy and I wouldn't have minded returning to the US, I am glad I get to stay.  Besides, I still have A LOT of Spanish to learn!  :o)

Pictures at right:  the front of the house (yes, it is literally 20 ft. from the pool), the inside of the house (small, but has a good "feel"), the view from the front door.

By the way, we have a futon in the living room if you are ready to travel!  We love guests!  :o)

Coming next:  New Year's, Acapulco, the Inauguration.     

The people of México

The average daily wage in México is currently 53 pesos (about $4 US).  This explains why an entire family will do/sell whatever they can to make money.  I have seen children as young as 4 and men/women as old as 80 in the streets, Zócalos or plazas selling goods or begging for money. 

Banks do not give loans to buy houses so in order for someone to leave their family and be on their own, they need cold hard cash to rent or buy a home.  This is the reason why generations of families live in one dwelling.  Many times it is the house or houses that were purchased decades before.  In order to pay for basic needs like public transportation, electricity, gas, water, dry goods and groceries--everyone works.  All of these are cheaper than the US but luxuries like cable TV, house phones and cell phones cost about the same as in the US.

I have compiled photos in the slideshow of people doing different things in some of the cities I have visited to give you a taste of what life is like for the Mexican people.  Some of it is heartbreaking to see day after day...

For pictures, click on this link:

http://picasaweb.google.com/regnor11/ThePeopleOfMexico#

Coming next:  We are moving!

Oaxaca Part 2: The first 3 days

Once in Oaxaca, we took full advantage of the many Artisan's Markets that were around the city and stopped at any that we passed by.  The hand-made crafts are beautiful and durable!  Rugs, jars, chocolate, mole, tamales, mezcal and coffee are just some of the things that you can buy and taste there.  We stayed at the Hostal Don Mario which was about 10 blocks from the Zocalo with many churches and beautiful buildings (not to mention artisan's markets) in between.  

On December 23rd, we walked to the Zocalo to see the Noche de los Rábinos (Night of the Radishes).  Each year artists from around the area carve radishes (some as big as a large zucchini) and set up displays of historic or biblical themes to be judged.  The artists set up their displays in the afternoon of the 23rd, spray the displays constantly with water to keep them fresh, and take them down that evening after the prizes are handed out.  There were so many people coming to see the displays that they had a raised walkway with fences and policemen surrounding the displays.  The line of people waiting to be allowed up on the raised walkway, was longer than a block.  Fortunately, we were able to walk around the outside of the raised walkway to see the displays and take pictures. 

On the 24th, we took the bus to Monte Albán, an ancient Zapotec capital (pyramid ruins), just a few kilometers from Oaxaca.  This site was first occupied in 500BC by Zapotecs.  "Hieroglyphs and dates in a dot-and-bar system carved during this era may well mean that the elite of Monte Albán were the first people to use writing and a written calendar in México."  What I have learned about the pyramids in México is that the huge sites where the pyramids were built were not inhabited, they were only religious sites.  In the case of Monte Albán, the people lived on the land below the pyramid.  

On the night of the 24th, we were able to see a Posada at the door of a church.  The Mexican tradition of the Posada begins on the 16th and ends on the night of the 24th.  This tradition symbolizes the trials which Mary and Joseph endured before finding a place to stay where Jesus could be born.  Adults and children dress up like Mary, Joseph, angels and pilgrims and walk house to house (or church) singing a traditional song asking to be allowed in.  At the first 3 or 4 places, they are refused entry with a song.  At the last (and previously planned) place, the pilgrims are allowed in and after praying in front of a nativity scene, enjoy food, drink and a chance to break a piñata which is usually in a shape representing the star of Bethlehem.

After watching the Posada for a bit, we continued into town to see what was happening in the Zocalo.  There were a lot of people there, some just coming from mass at the Cathedral, others hanging out, still others walking around looking at the trees of poinsettias and displays of Nacimientos (nativity scenes). From there we walked to the Casa Oaxaca Restaurant where we had an elegant, leisurely, Christmas Eve dinner complete with several serenades by three men in Mariachi outfits playing guitars.  It was magical!

For pictures, click on this link:

http://picasaweb.google.com/regnor11/OaxacaPart2TheFirst3Days#

Coming next:  The people of Oaxaca

Oaxaca Part 1: México City

Reed and I left for México City on the morning of the 20th.  Since we had some time before we had to meet our friends at the airport, we took the train to the Dolores Olmedo Museum. Dolores Olmedo was a self-made businesswoman (she started a construction company in the 40s) who was a huge fan of the arts and was determined to preserve Mexican art by assembling artifacts, modern folk art and paintings, spanning about 400 years of Mexican History.  All of this is displayed in a restored 16th century hacienda with beautiful plush lawns and gardens which seemed like an oasis in this very large, crowded city.  We spent a few hours visiting the many buildings on the complex and having lunch at the small restaurant overlooking the beautiful grounds.

The next day, with our friends from Olympia, Washington, we visited the Diego Rivera Mural Museum which has a huge mural that Diego painted on the side of the Hotel Prado in 1947. When the hotel was demolished after the 1985 earthquake, the mural was saved and transferred to the Museum.  The huge mural is called 'Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Park' and chronicles the history of the park from the time of Hernando Cortez (1519) onward.  The mural portrays numerous historical figures from México.  Upstairs in the museum was a display of items from the Spanish Inquisition.  Reading about the Inquisition was fascinating but very gut-wrenching because it was so similar to what Hitler did to the Jews.

From the Diego Rivera Museum we walked to the Museum of Popular Art.  In this location were 244 piñatas on display hanging from 5 stories of balconies in the courtyard.  Artists from Mexico City as well as other parts of the country, enter piñatas in this competition in hopes of winning the 15,000 peso 1st prize.  The talent was amazing!

Later that night, we headed to the National Institute of Fine Arts to see the Ballet Folklorico de Mexico by Mexico's national dance company which is sponsored by the Mexican Government. "Started in 1952 by dancer, choreographer, and teacher Amalia Hernandez, it has become recognized as one of the world's preeminent 'ethnic' ballet companies.   The colorful dances spotlight Mexico's regions, history, and culture."  All I can say is, "WOW"!  The costumes were stunning, the dancing/choreography was top-notch and the music was absolutely beautiful!  It was definitely one of my top 5 experiences in Mexico so far!

For pictures, click on this link:

http://picasaweb.google.com/regnor11/OaxacaPart1MexicoCity#

Coming next:  Oaxaca Part 2:  Oaxaca, the first 3 days